No two trips to Trinidad are ever the same. This, my 17th visit, generated its own memories.

Four generations of Trinidadian women coalesced momentarily, perhaps for the last time.

A following day, roaming about with Brahm for three hours deep in the dark mountainside forest beneath a pouring rain, just when all hope seemed lost, a brilliant sun broke through the canopy. Brahm caught three Morphos in 30 minutes: no doubt a world record.

The passing years have changed everything. I'm still unsure whether it is the people and the windward island that is changing, or my own, slowly fermenting view of the world.